Turkey Leg Roulade with Melted Leeks, Currants and Sage

Turkey and cure

• ·4 whole turkey legs (drumstick and thigh, about 5 lb total), boned out
• ·4 tsp kosher salt
• ·1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ·1 tsp ground coriander
• ·½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

Leek, currant and sage filling

• ·4 tbsp unsalted butter
• ·3 large leeks, white and pale green parts, halved and thinly sliced
• ·4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• ·½ cup dried currants
• ·⅜ cup dry white wine or apple cider
• ·3 tbsp chopped fresh sage
• ·1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
• ·1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs from day-old country bread
• ·½ tsp kosher salt

Roasting

• ·2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• ·8 small shallots, peeled and halved
• ·1 cup turkey or chicken stock
• ·2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
• ·Butcher's twine

Bone the legs (or buy them boneless)

1. 1

   Ask your butcher for boneless, skin-on turkey legs and thighs — most will do it with a day's notice, and it is the single biggest shortcut in this recipe.

2. 2

   To bone them yourself, lay a leg skin side down. Run a sharp boning knife along the length of the thigh bone to expose it, then scrape the meat away from the bone on all sides and lift the bone out.

3. 3

   Continue down the drumstick the same way, scraping close to the bone and cutting through the tendons at the ankle joint. Pull out the pale, stiff tendons with a paper towel for grip; they never soften with cooking.

4. 4

   Butterfly any thick sections so the meat lies in an even sheet roughly 3/4 inch thick. Save the bones for stock.

Season a day ahead

1. 1

   Combine the salt, pepper, coriander and nutmeg. Season the meat evenly on both sides.

2. 2

   Stack the legs skin side up on a rack set over a sheet pan and refrigerate uncovered 12 to 24 hours. The surface dries, which is exactly what gives you crisp skin later.

Melt the leeks

1. 1

   Melt the butter in a wide skillet over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and salt and cook slowly, stirring often, 18 to 22 minutes, until completely soft and silky with no browning.

2. 2

   Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Add the currants and wine and simmer until the pan is nearly dry and the currants are plump.

3. 3

   Off the heat, stir in the sage, thyme and breadcrumbs. Spread on a plate and cool completely — warm filling steams the meat and loosens the roll.

Roll and tie

1. 1

   Lay the meat skin side down, overlapping the pieces slightly to form two even rectangles about 10 by 8 inches. Press the seams together.

2. 2

   Spread the cooled filling over each rectangle in a thin, even layer, leaving a 1-inch border along the far long edge.

3. 3

   Roll each up tightly from the long edge nearest you, keeping steady tension so no air pockets form. Finish seam side down.

4. 4

   Cut lengths of butcher's twine and tie at 1 1/2-inch intervals, starting at the center and working outward. Tie snugly enough to hold a round shape, not so tight that the filling squeezes out. Tuck in the ends and tie once lengthwise.

Roast

1. 1

   Heat the oven to 425°F. Rub the roulades with olive oil and set them seam side down in a roasting pan with the shallots scattered around.

2. 2

   Roast 20 minutes to set the skin, then reduce to 350°F, pour the stock into the pan and continue roasting 55 to 70 minutes.

3. 3

   Baste twice with pan juices. If the skin darkens before the interior is ready, tent loosely with foil.

4. 4

   Pull the roulades at an internal temperature of 165°F at the thickest center point. Leg meat is happiest at 170°F to 175°F, so a few degrees of carryover is welcome, not a problem.

5. 5

   Brush the hot roulades with softened butter and rest 20 to 25 minutes before slicing.

Slice and serve

1. 1

   Snip and remove every piece of twine.

2. 2

   Slice with a long serrated or very sharp chef's knife into 3/4-inch rounds, using a single smooth stroke rather than sawing so the spiral stays intact.

3. 3

   Fan the slices on a warmed platter with the roasted shallots and fresh sage, and spoon over a little gravy just before serving.