Sausage and Fennel Stuffing

• ·1½ lb day-old country sourdough, ciabatta or challah, torn in 1-inch pieces
• ·1 lb sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
• ·4 tbsp unsalted butter
• ·2 large fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced (fronds reserved)
• ·1 large onion, diced
• ·3 ribs celery, diced
• ·1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
• ·2 tbsp chopped fresh sage
• ·1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
• ·3 cups turkey or chicken stock, warm
• ·3 large eggs, beaten
• ·1 tsp kosher salt
• ·½ tsp black pepper

Dry the bread

1. 1

   Overnight method: spread the torn bread on sheet pans and leave uncovered at room temperature 12 to 24 hours.

2. 2

   Same-day method: bake at 300°F for 25 to 30 minutes, tossing once, until dry and crisp at the edges but not toasted through.

3. 3

   Sourdough gives the best structure, ciabatta the airiest crumb, challah the richest flavor. Avoid soft sandwich bread, which turns to paste.

Build

1. 1

   Brown the sausage in a large skillet over medium-high heat, breaking it into bite-size pieces. Remove with a slotted spoon.

2. 2

   Add the butter to the drippings, then the fennel, onion and celery. Cook 15 to 18 minutes over medium heat until soft and lightly caramelized at the edges.

3. 3

   Stir in the fennel seeds, sage, thyme, salt and pepper and cook 1 minute more.

4. 4

   Combine the bread, sausage and vegetables in a large bowl. Whisk the warm stock with the eggs and pour over, folding gently.

5. 5

   Let it sit 10 minutes and check the moisture: the bread should be saturated but still hold its shape when squeezed. Add stock 1/4 cup at a time if it is dry; add a handful of reserved dry bread if it is soupy.

6. 6

   Transfer to a buttered 9x13-inch baking dish, mounding the surface so there are peaks to crisp.

Bake

1. 1

   Bake covered with foil at 375°F for 30 minutes — this steams the center tender.

2. 2

   Uncover and bake 25 to 30 minutes more, until the top is deeply golden and crackling and the center registers 165°F.

3. 3

   Rest 10 minutes and scatter with chopped fennel fronds before serving.

Vegetarian variation

1. 1

   Replace the sausage with 1 pound cremini mushrooms, quartered and browned hard in olive oil, plus 1 teaspoon fennel seed and 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika.

2. 2

   Use vegetable stock and add 2 tablespoons butter to make up for the missing fat. Brown the mushrooms in batches so they roast rather than steam.